the dries van noten spring/summer 2023 collection– a love story of fabric, print and color

antwerp-based designer dries van noten is lauded as one of fashion’s most iconic visionaries, representing innovation, evolution, and an experiential departure from the ordinary. explore the inspiration behind his spring/summer 2023 collection below, or shop dries van noten here.

darkness into light

the spring 2023 collection evolves in three parts, progressing from an all-black beginning into a vibrant, floral celebration of optimism. contrasting elements are the heart of the collection— darkness into light; fragility and robustness; transparency and softness juxtaposed with powerful silhouettes. couture techniques and handcrafted elements emphasize physicality and movement.

the purity of black

non-colors dominate the first segment in the collection. inspired by artist kazmir malevich’s black square, the pieces in this series are precise and sculptural. raw, technical fabrics like chinzed cotton, cupro, and silk ponge create precise, structured silhouettes.

a memory of color

muted, stripped-back pastels keep the focus on soft tailoring and intricate, textural details. lightweight silk crepe, cotton poplin, and gabardine are rendered in fanlike ruffles, crushed pleats, and elegant drapes to create fluid, sensual shapes.

prints and textures collide in vibrant optimism 

the suggestion of color gives way to an explosion of florals. to develop the prints for his spring/summer 2023 collection, dries van noten reimagines some of the house’s iconinc floral designs, manipulating their scale. some are oversized, others shrunken to micro-prints. all are springy, bright, and incredibly alive. intricate surface textures, semi-transparent fabrics, and bold pattern mixing give the effect of a kaleidoscope of florals.

 

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