market report : paris

During last month’s market trips, autumn’s mild start made it easy to imagine spring clothing and shoes in their corresponding season. Paris was no exception. Temperate weather highlighted the inherent freshness across collections.

We began Friday evening nestled in the Marais with Cretan jewelry designer Katerina Makriyianni, whose bright and inventive pieces beautifully rework one of our favorite accessory tropes — statement earrings — into styles that were familiar and desirable yet entirely new.

Saturday was a full day that began at the Paris outpost of New York-based Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s showroom where we saw lovely offerings from her eponymous line. A red linen top with casually knotted sleeves and matching skirt were effortless standouts. Coveted knits from Lauren Manoogian were sublime as ever. 

We spent midday at two of Tranoi’s three trade shows. After finishing up at Cite de la Mode et du Design, we opted for Tranoi's alternative mode of transportation — by boat — to their second location at the Louvre. As we made our way down the Seine, the overcast day began to clear, casting the grey Paris skyline into blue relief. We all agreed that the ride had a calming effect between the bustle of the shows. 

 

Sofie D'Hoore's sculptural twill separates and dresses didn't disappoint. A light navy jacket was darling — with a ruffled panel down one side of the front placket. When this detail was revealed to be detachable with the option to reattach it as a collar, adding a bit of drama to an elegant look, we were sold. 

We ended Saturday at the fragrant and seductive Hôtel Costes, though we weren’t there to satisfy our senses with their custom candles or with a sampling from their buzzing café scene. We were there for another indulgence, though no less opulent than the setting: the shoes of Jean-Michel Cazabat. One pair in particular could very well qualify as an objet d'art. 

By Monday, fall made its first noticeable gesture: the air was brisk, and the morning was bright but in that autumnal way where the shadows seem long well before noon.

We headed west to the 8th arrondissement early enough so that one wouldn't know the Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe were just a few streets over, awaiting the oncoming hum of tourists. We arrived at the expansive showroom of Malone Souliers where neon, amorphous blocks held the London-based line's chaussures and offered whimsical contrast to the prim room's golden wallpaper and wood panels. The shoes were exceptional, as expected, and we enjoyed meeting and chatting with co-founder of the line Roy Luwolt.

We worked our way back east, and along the way, we had our sneaker and shirt fixes at Golden Goose and Fabiana Pigna, respectively. 

We concluded Monday and our entire trip at the newly completed Jerome Dreyfuss showroom. The space is discreet and serene. Abounding flora spills in from an interior courtyard, blurring the line between indoor and outdoor spaces. It's a perfect backdrop for the line’s conversational accessories, though one could also imagine the space as the ideal Parisian apartment. We chatted with Jerome, who is funny, charming, and deeply committed to the ethos of running a small, independent company. As champagne and a platter of sushi were brought out, we were ready to move in.

If you're wondering how I got this far writing about Paris and only mentioned food once at the end, you've just discovered what our second spring market report will entail — restaurant recommendations!  From both our New York and Paris trips. Stay tuned. 

 

October 11, 2016 by Will Frazier
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